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QUIRKY FOODS

basashi.gif (31001 bytes) BASASHI (RAW HORSE MEAT)

Exlaining the expression, "I'm so hungry I could eat a horse" to Japanese people can be very difficult, because in many parts of Japan, horse meat is considered a delicacy.  Raw horse meat, or basashi, is most commonly eaten in the Shinshu district (Nagano, Gifu, Toyama) and the Kumamoto district of Kyushu.  It is eaten with soy sauce and actually tastes pretty good.

sikakusuika.jpg (16160 bytes) SQUARE WATERMELONS (Shikaku Suika)

        One of the rarest foods in Japan is the square watermelon.  Grown in a square, glass case, they cost  about 10,000 yen each and are very difficult to find because they are so difficult to grow.  This sort of expensive luxury food is not eaten by regular people but is instead given as a gift to business associates or "o sewa ni natta hito" (people to whom you have an obligation because of something they have done for you).

UNUSUAL ICE CREAM FLAVOURS

     Near the canal in Otaru, Hokkaido (Otaru Unga), there is, what may truly be, the world's most unusual ice creamshop.  This surprisingly popular shop sells the following ice cream flavours: Tofu, Natto (fermented beans), Wasabi ( horseradish), Uni (sea urchin), Kani (crab), Ika Sumi (squid ink), Sakura Ebi (shrimp), Nihonshu (Japanese alcohol), Beer, Wine, Umeboshi (pickled plum), Goma (sesame seed), Mochikome (rice cake), Kabocha (pumpkin), Satsumaimo (sweet potato), Jyagabata (potato with butter), Bara (rose), Sakura no Hana (cherry blossom petals), Nihoncha (Japanese tea), Kocha (tea), Vanilla, Cream Cheese, and White Coffee.  The crab isfairly tasty, but Wasabi is nearly inedible.

Getting there:  Otaru is 36 minutes from Sapporo on the JR Hakkodateline.  There is also a bus from Sapporo station that takes about an hour.  To find the shop itself, walk along the canal until you seea big glass shop which is beside the Hotel Canal.  The Hokkaido Ice Cream-Ya San is behind the glass shop. 

For more strange ice cream flavours check out:
http://mdn.mainichi.co.jp/japano/0207/ice-cream/2.html.   (Thanks to Steve Kennedy for submitting this link.)


SUZUME--GRILLED SPARROWS ON A STICK

Before                            After 

        At many Yakitori-ya (restaurants specializing in grilled food on skewers) you can eat sparrow.  It's not nearly as bad as it sounds because although the birds are cooked whole and eaten bones and all, they lose their shape without their feathers and are coated in a thick brown sauce.  The taste is so-so.



SAKANA NO IKIZUKURI--
LIVING FISH

       One night, I was inan Izakaya (Japanese-style pub) with some friends after a long night of drinking.  Someone got hungry and asked for a menu.  He pointed to the menu and everyone suddenly started laughing and chattering and looking at me.  They called the waitress over and said, "Sakana no Ikizukuri please". Of course I asked what it was, but they just gave me funny looks and said, "Wait and see!"
     In my years in Japan I have eaten octopus, squid, seaweed, and even fried grasshoppers, so there is little on a menu that will frighten me.  I was however, completely shocked by what the waiter brought that night.
     On a little plate there was a 10 inch long fish suspended an inch above the plate on two vertical sticks, which were driven through its body from stomach to spine.  The fish looked fresh from the sea except that several big hunks of its flesh had been cut out of its sides.  The strips of flesh were on the plate in front of it.  This isn't so bad, I thought.  And then the fish wiggled!  I thought that my eyes must have been playing tricks on me, but then it wiggled some more, vainly trying to get itself off the stakes, and I realized it was still alive.  They gave me a piece of meat, and I had to eat it with the fish's big eyes staring at me as if it was thinking, "Hey you!  What are doing to me?  Give me my flesh back!  What?  You're eating me?  You're eating me? You sick bastard!"  I figured the fish was a goner anyway, so I ate it, and I have to admit, it was about the best fish I have ever tasted. It certainly was fresh anyway.


FUGU --When you have gotten used to raw squid, fried grasshoppers, octopus, and eel,why not try something really adventurous--blowfish.  Containing the deadly poison tetrotoxin (an ounce of which is enough to kill 30,000 people), if fugu is not prepared properly, it can kill a person in less than five minutes.  Every year, some less than brilliant DIY types are killed trying to save money by preparing this expensive delicacy at home.
    Fugu can be eaten safely at Fugu Ryotei (restaurants specialising in fugu) where it is prepared by specially trained 'fish surgeons', who study the art of preparing fugu for years before they are licensed, and who are said to be willing to take their own life if one of their customers is poisoned (although I've never heard of anyone actually doing it).
    Fugu can be served raw (fugu sashimi), or in a stew and is usually eaten with hot sake.  Chefs leave just enough poison in the fins to make your lips numb!  The best time to eat fugu is between October and March, when the fish is fresh, but it is available year round.  Fugu is also said to be an aphrodisiac.
     At the best fugu restaurants, the fish are kept alive, swimming in a tank until the customer orders them.  A typical three-course meal costs around 10 000 yen.

      If you want to try Fugu, here are some addresses of fugu ryotei.  Reservations are often necessary:
  Ajioka:  Open 5-10:30pm, closed Sundays and holidays.  New Comparu Bldg.6F, 7-7-12 Ginza.  03-3574-8844.  Ginza Station near Chuo Dori.
  Ikesu:  Open 11:30am-2pm, 5-11pm.  1-5-25 Higashi-machi, Kichijoji.  0422-21-1438.  Near Kichijiji Station.
  Shunsagami.  Open 11am-10:30 pm.  Odakyu Manhattan Hills 13F, 1-1-3 NishiShinjuku.  03-3343-4885.  Near Shinjuku Station, west Exit.
  Tsuketei.  Open 4-11pm, closed Sundays and holidays.  1-39-1 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku.  03-3986-3321.  Near Ikebukuro Stn, west exit, behind Tobu department store.
  Fuguyoshi.  Open 5-11:30pm.  2-13-8 Ikebukuro.  03-5951-1929.  Near Ikebukuro stn, west exit.


The Ice Cream Man's Evil Twin...
The Yakiimo Man

          Japanese food, I'm convinced, is the best in the world.  It is nutritious, low in fat, pleasing to the eye, and above all delicious.  That said,  it is centuries behind the west in the junk food/dessert department.  Green tea flavoured ice cream, bean paste (anko) filled cookies,and seaweed crackers just doesn't make your mouth water!  But the king of strange snack foods is Yakiimo (baked sweet potatoes).   Aside from being a little bland, the sweet potato would be nothing more than an uninspired snack food choice, but it is the way that they are sold that makes them one of Japan's quirkiest foods.
        The Yakiimo man is the Japanese equivalent of the ice cream man.  He drives around in a little truck selling snack foods, mostly to young people, but that is where the similarities end.  Let's contrast Japan's most popular mobile snack vendor, the Yakiimo man,with America's most popular mobile snack vendor, the IceCream Man .

THE ICE CREAM MAN

THE YAKIIMO MAN

THE VEHICLE:

Spotlessly clean with a state of the art refrigeration system.  Plays happy music that sets children running. 

THE VEHICLE:

No, that thing in the back of his truck is not a pileof scrap destined for the junk yard.  That is the oven in which theYakiimo are cooked. 

THE MAN:

Friendly man with a big smile in a spotless white uniformor an old, Italian style traditional ice cream parlour get-up.
Loves children.  Tends to be a little overweight due to too many samples of his product.  Ice cream men exude wholesomeness and fun.

THE MAN:

Although I don't want to stereotype Yakiimo men,they seem to have more than their fair share of squinty, smelly, unwholesome looking men in their ranks.  The man in this picture is the most wholesome Yakiimo man that I've ever seen.  He has about 28 more teeth then the nation alaverage, and he is not smoking, bent or wizened.  Yakiimo men exude evil.

 THE FOOD:
icecream1.jpg (2721 bytes)
A Picture says a thousand words.

THE FOOD:

A picture says a thousand words.

THE MUSIC:

Happy, melodic tunes that send children running andlaughing into the street.

THE MUSIC:

Fried sweet potatoes
Delicious Fried Sweet Potatoes
Sweet Potatoes Fried on stones
Delicious!

     Mournful music, somewhat reminiscentof a Muslim call to prayer.  The first time that I heard theYakiimo man's song, I thought that there was a funeral in the neighbourhood.   It is sort of   haunting and beautiful but...



QUIRKY FOOD RELATED PAGES
The web's first Japanese Pizza Home page is is dedicated to a Pizza Lover's worst nightmare.  Check out this sample:
Japanese Style: "The Flavorof Seaweed and Shiso Makes it All the Better!"
Toppings: Shredded Pork, Shimeji Mushrooms, Bamboo Shoots, Nori (seaweed), Shiso (perilla) Leaves
Click here for the  TheWeb's First Japanese Pizza Page.


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